Textile fabric



oct. 15, 1940. METZGER 2,217,695`

TEXTILE FABRI C Filed April 22, 1939 VAVINAVAVA 1 "v ATTO RN EY Patented Oct. 15, 1940 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE mmlllm nul Memes, nucl, swlmrlme Application April 22, 1989, Serial No 269,518 i 2 Claims. (Cl. 139-3855) This invention relates to a .textile fabric adapted for use in articles of wearing apparel that have fold lines such as collars and cuffs.

The fabric of this invention is primarily for use 5 as a lining ply insertion in a multiply article of wearing apparel having a fold line which article is stiened by adhesively uniting the plies together.

' The stiifened article of wearing apparel is pro- 10 vided between each two layers of washable materiai with an adhesive-containing stiffening insertion which cements the two layers of washable material together, the said stiffening insertion being provided with pores passing through the l5 same, the size and disposition of which in at least one position, serving as folding position, are such that the article of wearing apparel at this position is softer than at the remaining parts, in order to enable easy folding to be effected.

90 Examples of stiuening means for the lining ply insertion of this invention are fabrics woven frommasses which are soluble or capable of swelling or can be softened by heat, for example cellulose derivatives, with or without softeners, natural or artificial resins and the like, which after being inserted are softened under pressure by treatment with dissolving or swelling agents or by heat and are thereby caused to adhere to the outer plies. This woven fabric need not necessarily ,3 consist entirely of cellulose derivatives, but may also consist of mixed fabrics, for example of acetate silk and cotton.

The lining ply of this invention may be inserted in any desired manner between the pieces of material to be snfrened. 'Threads may lle for example parallel or crossed and fabrics may be so arranged that their threads lie parallel or, for example, diagonally to the threads of the article of wearing apparel.A Fabric insertions may for example be of the usual rectilinear form or may also he woven in conical form.

Instead of being discontinuous, the lining ply insertion of this invention may be provided at s theI folding position with spaces, for example holes, slits and .the like. If threads, strips, cuttings and the like are employed, these may be entirely or partially omitted in the folding posi# tion or consist of weaker material at this point. 50 If the lining ply insertions consist of fabric, composed entirely of cellulose derivative threads for example, a part of the threads may be omitted or consist of thinner material at the folding position. v In the case of mixed fabrics, cellulose Y'u `derivative threads may be entirely `or partially -omitted or if desired consist of thinner material at the desired position.

Finally the folding line in all thehereinbefore described cases may be -producedby preventing the insertion from developing a stiiiening effect `5 at the position in question by inhibiting, or weakening its adhesive action. This may be effected by protecting the insertion at the folding position from the action of the `dissolving orH swelling agents during the treatment with the said agents l0 of the article of wearing apparel containing the insertion. In certain circumstances the article of wearing apparel, lin which the insertions have already lbeen cemented, may also be subjected to a treatmentwhereby adhesion at the folding pol5A sition is again removed by completely dissolvingthe ceilulosederivative at this point.

Obviously the folding position may also beproduced by any desired combinations of the known l ,weakening methods employed in the weaving in- Y dustry and the hereinbefore described methods.

One method of procedure in the manufacture of the article of wearing. apparel in which the textile fabric of this invention is to be employed as an insertion is first to complete the same from N outer layers and at least one insertion and then to moisten the completed article with a solvent or swelling 'agent fon the adhesive material contained in the insertion and thereafter to subject the article to compression, if necessary with the $0 application of heat. An alternative procedure, however, is lnrst to superimpose sheets of the requisite material, i'. e., the outer material and the insertion or insertions, then .to saturate the superimposed sheets with the solvent in question, with the aid of rollers, to rpass the sheets so joined together overuhot rollers and in this ww to produce an end product; from which articles of wearing apparel adapted to be laundered'having a prepared folding line, for example collars n and the like, may be produced by stamping out, after which the articles need only be provided with buttonhole or marginal seams. If collars or cuffs or, for exampl shirt fronts for sewing on to shirts are to be made, the threads of adhesive material in the stiffening insertion can be likewise entirely omitted or replaced by threads of non-adhesive material at the edges which are to remain soft.

The materials to be cemented together may be so cut in sheets of about the width of a single article of wearing apparel and be joined together. An alternative" procedure, however, is to keep the sheets so wide that several articles lying side by side can be cut out. as is for example disclosed in 'Swiss patent specication No. 158,520. 'Ihe sheets may, for example, be so prepared that in the folding lines c and d of Fig. 2 of the said patent specification the stiiening insertion is either entirely omitted or the adhesive threads are entirely or partially omitted.

By way of example, reference is to be had to the accompanying drawing wherein:

Figure 1 shows a multiply article of wearing apparel with the outer ply broken away to show one type of lining ply insertion of this invention;

Fig. 2 is a sectional view through Fig. l to illustrate the weave of the lining ply;

Fig. 3 shows a multiply article similar to Fig. 1 with another type of construction for the lining ply;

Fig. 4 is a sectional 4-4 of Fig. 3; A

Fig. 5 shows a multiply article similar to Fig. l showing another type of lining ply insertion of thisinvention; and y Fig. 6 is a sectional view taken on the line 8--8 oi' Fig. 5. Figures 1 and 2 show a multiply article of wearing apparel such as a collar or cufi having outer plies I 5 and Il of any suitable material used in the construction of such articles and a lining ply I2 inserted between the outer plies. There is a fold zone I3 for the article. To make the article readily i'oldable at this fold zone the lining ply is woven in the following manner:

The weft threads I4 of the lining ply are all cotton or any suitable material other'than cellulose derivative threads. The warp threads i5 and I8 are of cotton and acetate respectively arranged alternately or in spaced groups in any well known manner. At the area of the fold zone the Warp threads are entirely omitted. Thus, when the plies are joined together adhesively by a suitable solvent and heat and pressure in a. manner well mown in the ait, the plies will not be view taken on the line adhesively united in the area of the fold zone, and the article will be more readily foldable.

In Figures 3 and 4l the lining ply is woven of the same materials in the Warp and weft as in Fig. 1, but in making the ,article of wearing apparel the lining ply is completely omitted in the area oi the fold zone.

In Figures 5 and 6.the same weft and warp threads are used as in Fig. 1, but in the area of the fold zone all cotton warp threads are used instead of alternate -cotton and acetate threads as in the rest of the lining. This weave accomplishes the same easily ioldable -fold zone in the finished article,l but it is stronger than the the lining of Fig. 1 because no threads are omitted.

The material of this invention may be woven in a. flat rectilinear form or may be woven conically depending upon the type of fold line desired. With a curved fold line a conical weave will be used.

This application is a continuation-impart of my pending application Serial No. 26,502, iiled June 13, i935.

What I claim is:

1. A lining for a collar and cuil.' comprising a textile body having a fold zone, said body having woven therein a substance which is initially noncementitious but has the inherent property of being made cementitious, the fold zone of the lining being woven from yarns free from cementitious material. l

2. A lining for a collar comprising a curvilinear textile body having a fold zone, said body having woven therein a. substance which is initially noncementitious. but having the inherent property iii of being made cementitious. the fold zone of the n lining being woven from yarns free from cementltious material.

PAUL METZGER. 

